Zoli’s Pizza, even before the doors opened, had several DFW foodie-beat-folks claiming it was Jay Jerrier’s next TRIUMPH…coming off the super-success he had with Cane Rosso.
I reviewed Cane Rosso here and I enjoyed it. I dare say that the majority of the DFW are ignorant to the concept of Neapolitan, so we defer to these places popping up to give us what best represents that style.
NY style, on the other hand, is readily available everywhere on this planet. We eat it. We know it. It’s easier to wrap our heads around it.
So when I heard Jerrier was opening a NY-style joint I was more than curious. It seems Cane Rosso had some growing pains in the beginning…people telling him it didn’t taste like (insert pizza chain here) and that probably drove him nuts. It would me…had I taken all that time to study and perfect Neapolitan style and you ask me why it’s not like Papa John’s?
ARRRRRGHHHH!!!!! (Talk about Lucy pulling the football out of Charlie Brown’s path at the last-minute)
Whatever the reason, he spent time and money to develop a NY style….and Zoli’s was born.
I took some hardcore pizza-lovers with me. They are just as hungry as they were honest. We started with a few slices of NY-style with soppressata. I enjoyed it, but I am a sucker for soppressata. My two testers thought otherwise:
Tester One: This tastes like mall-pizza with good pepperoni!
Tester Two: Pretty greasy. Kinda expensive for what you get and it’s not really that fresh. They make they pizza and they just sit there for who knows how long? Then reheat the slices, so yeah I get the mall-pizza-thing. I don’t know if I care for that.
okayyy….This is going sour fast. I am hearing drama about trendy-bishop-arts……where everything is over-rated….mind you this is the pair that co-tasted Cane Rosso with me and thought it “tasted like nothing but salt” and “pizza good but the place is full of kinda fake-rich-snobby people eating overpriced pizza.”
Okay…so maybe I will hold-back telling them this place is owned by the same guy that does Cane Rosso.
So I order me another slice to go – this time it’s your basic cheese…done in the Sicilian-style (which is a thicker…deep dish style).
We end up staying too..so I can finish my Sicilian-slice and it’s actually damn good. It’s thick and chewy and has a ton of flavor for a cheese slice. I am instantly transported to Brooklyn in-my-youth, where Gramma Panzeri would make pizza just like this for the kids on Sunday nights. Wow. it’s good. Thick and hearty. Robust. Awesome.
On the way out the door, I notice something I totally forgot about. Garlic Knots. Some DFW foodies have sworn that the Garlic Knots were amazing and I love me some garlic so I get an order to go. What you see there is absolute gorgeous. Garlic-butter soaked knots and some marinara to go along for the ride. These look sinful.
These are NOT sinful. Seeing is not believing because the outside is tender and perfect ….but the inside…as I break one apart is thick and DRY. A heavy cake-or-sturdy-cornbread type consistency inside. Dry. chalky. dry-cake-y…and I have to close them up. Wasted a few dollars on these?
Overall I dig Zoli’s. I would make a special trip for the Sicilian slice but other than that there are pizzerias alot closer that I enjoy more. I also wouldn’t order the knots again, but that’s me. I will probably not invite those two “pizza-lovers” to come with either. It’s funny how something so simple like pizza can divide a group. One man’s trash is another man’s treasure and all that.
Zoli’s is a bit trendy and pricey but hey…you are in the Bish area…so you gotta expect a little of that.
Zoli’s NY Pizza
202 W Davis St,
Dallas, TX 75208